Our Thoughts
Though a tiny city–only seven miles by seven miles–its influence is as wide as its appeal is diverse. Within 24 hours, you could hike a coastal path with Silicon Valley billionaires; barter in Chinatown’s lantern-strung streets; and chow down on cheap tacos in the Latin-flavoured Mission District, where palms sway outside Art Deco movie palaces. Throw in a surplus of major landmarks–the Golden Gate Bridge, Alcatraz island, cable cars, Lombard Street–and you’ve got a solid argument that this isn’t just the United States’ best-looking city. It’s simply one of the best.
One of the great things about living on the west coast of North America is that no destination is too far. San Francisco is only a two hour jaunt from the Pacific Northwest and is served by multiple airlines, so your choices are almost endless. We prefer Alaska Airlines, especially as it’s now part of the Oneworld Alliance.
Cathy and I like to head to this charming city for the occasional weekend getaway. On arrival at SFO airport you can easily grab a taxi or take the BART line to the city; it’s cheap and an easy way to see the suburbs that surround San Francisco.
Though a tiny city–only seven miles by seven miles–its influence is as wide as its appeal is diverse. Within 24 hours, you could hike a coastal path with Silicon Valley billionaires; barter in Chinatown’s lantern-strung streets; and chow down on cheap tacos in the Latin-flavoured Mission District, where palms sway outside Art Deco movie palaces. Throw in a surplus of major landmarks–the Golden Gate Bridge, Alcatraz island, cable cars, Lombard Street–and you’ve got a solid argument that this isn’t just the United States’ best-looking city. It’s simply one of the best.
Day One
Morning
Start your day with bay views at the Ferry Building (1 The Embarcadero; 00 1 415 983 8030): the terminal doubles as a marketplace for the Bay Area’s culinary heroes.
Outside, catch the vintage F tram along the palm-lined Embarcadero boulevard to Pier 33, where cruises leave for Alcatraz Island (00 1 415 981 7625); note that you should book tickets a month in advance.
Once docked, pick up the excellent free audio tour inside the prison. Don’t miss the graffiti on the water tower, left by Native American protesters who occupied Alcatraz in the 1970s. A thorough poke around the former federal prison should take about three hours.
Afternoon
A short stroll from Pier 33, search out the wooden staircase climbing through residents’ tumbling cliffside gardens. Filbert Street Steps are a steep slog, but keep pausing to glance behind for phenomenal views of bobbing sailboats and the Bay Bridge. At the top, continue along Filbert to Hyde, and hop aboard the next cable car. Enjoy a hair-raising ride down precipitous hills, until the end of the line at Fisherman’s Wharf.
Resist turning east to the tourist-trap wharf and rent a bike at nearby Blazing Saddles (2715 Hyde; 00 1 415 202 8888). Now pedal west along Marina Boulevard to Crissy Field in Presidio National Park (00 1 415 561 5300). The promenade gives front-row views of the Golden Gate Bridge and Marin Headlands. The clearest days are in autumn and winter: summer fog often obscures the vista.
After dark, the Bay Bridge is illuminated by a permanent art installation, ‘The Bay Lights’. Watch 25,000 LEDs streak across the cables in dramatic patterns with a cocktail at bayside Waterbar (399 The Embarcadero; 00 1 415 284 9922). The Sappho–a sort-of negroni with Cointreau and Sipsmith gin, is a good, stiff nightcap.
P.S., Waterbar is also a great option for seafood lovers. The waterfront spot serves up spectacular seafood that’s some of the freshest we’ve ever had. It’s a little pricey, but well worth the splurge.
Day Two
Morning
You can’t come to San Francisco and miss Golden Gate Park. As the city is all-too-fond of pointing out, this green escape is larger than Manhattan’s Central Park. Start at the eastern tip, in Haight-Ashbury.
Explore this area and take your time, as it’s the birthplace of great music. Legends like Jimmy Hendrix lived here and the hippy movement was spawned here also.
For those of you into vinyl, head to Amoeba Music at 1855 Haight St. It’s a huge (and I do mean HUGE) warehouse of great new and used vinyl records. I’ve spent hours there, so be careful not to let the day get away from you!
Afternoon
The city’s hottest neighborhood is also its oldest. The Mission is where Spanish settlers founded San Francisco in 1776. Buy lunch at renowned Tartine Bakery (600 Guerrero St.; 00 1 415 487 2600), which starts serving sandwiches (sample filling: smoked sheep cheese and quince jam) after 11:30am. Picnic at palm-dotted Dolores Park (19th & Dolores St.), with fabulous vistas of downtown skyscrapers.
Late
Head to the Top of the Mark, an iconic (but well-hidden) cocktail bar with 360-degree views of the city.
The dinner dance is great; I hate cover bands but the guys at the Mark even got me out on the dance floor!
As you can see it’s always a great weekend in San Francisco, and we can’t wait to return very soon.
Andrew Taylor
For Andrew, travel is so much more than just learning history or taking photos. Rather, the value of travel is witnessing a lifestyle, bonding with locals, and gaining rich cultural experiences. That’s why he founded the Luxury Wanderer; a place to share itineraries, offer advice, swap stories, and foster a like-minded community of curious travellers.
Reader Interactions