Steal, Deal, and Splurge: Visiting Amalfi Coast

Our Thoughts

The Amalfi Coast is one of the most iconic destinations in all of Italy. Head to this seaside paradise in the spring for heat, views, and heavenly lemon treats. 

Italy is always a good idea—just ask Lake Como residents George and Amal Clooney, Portofino newlyweds Kourtney Kardashian and Travis Barker, or Mike White, creator of the Sicily-based The White Lotus. But today we’re talking about another beloved Italian destination—the Amalfi Coast.

Known for its lemons, seafood, and stunning seaside vistas, the coastal region has grown in popularity gradually, with a big surge in summer 2022—just a few months after my own visit in May. I’ve always been ahead of the trends, so let me share the steals, deals, and splurges of Italy’s stunning Amalfi Coast.


STEAL: Hotel Raito

I spent four nights at Hotel Raito—and spent four days absolutely gobsmacked by the price we paid. For $275 CAD per night, we had a gorgeous suite with a terrace overlooking the ocean, free shuttle service into town, an expansive breakfast buffet, and—through a mix-up at the front desk—a bottle of ice-cold Prosecco waiting for us upon arrival.

By choosing Viertri sul Mare as our home base, we saved significantly on accommodations—but note that ferry service is a bit trickier from the Salerno region due to there being a bit of a drive to the marina. 

DEAL: Hotel Punta Regina

Meanwhile, down the coast at Hotel Punta Regina, guests can enjoy a similar lodging experience for a slightly higher pricetag—a superior double room, private balcony, a fabulous breakfast, and pool access. Guests can access Positano ferries with ease and the famous Spiaggia Grande beach is only a six-minute walk from your suite. It’ll cost about double what Hotel Raito does, at $600 CAD per night, but you’ll have quicker and more affordable access to the sites, like Capri and Path of Gods.

SPLURGE: Le Sirenuse

If I were to go all out on Amalfi Coast accommodations, I’d choose the stunning Le Sirenuse. A Michelin restaurant, oyster bar, fitness centre, and some of the most incredible views of the region. The family-run, privately operated hotel has been around since 1951 and is beloved by celebrities and businesspeople. Even if you don’t want to splurge on a $1200-per-night room, book a table at La Sponda, with chef Matteo Temperini—and book early. 

If you’re like me and want to spend a decent amount of time on the Amalfi coast, book a Junior Suite for more than four nights in peak season—you’ll be entitled to a two-hour excursion on a vintage speedboat with complimentary Prosecco. 


STEAL: Everything Lemon

My biggest regret of my trip to Italy was not eating more lemony things. Amalfi is known for its large, juicy, nearly-seedless lemons—and they’re heavily featured in local cuisine.

Sure, lemon sorbet in a giant lemon-shell (we’re talking way bigger than a grapefruit) cost upwards of ten euros, but there were plenty of budget options. I ate the following lemon dishes: lemon gelato, lemon ricotta ravioli, limoncello, and several lemon Peroni radlers. It was not enough. Don’t make my mistakes. 

DEAL: Il Principe e la Civetta

Our most memorable meal was at Il Principe e la Civetta, nestled into the hills of Vietri Sul Mare. Owner and Chef Antonio welcomed us, recommended a local wine, oversaw the kitchen staff, and acted as our server for the evening. My favourite dish was an unexpected one—Carpaccio di Pesce, Pescate del Giorno, the fish of the day carpaccio. It was thinly sliced, served on a giant stone of pink Himalayan salt, with sliced mango, cantaloupe, and strawberries. 

Meanwhile, my favourite moment was when Antonio’s toddler daughter walked confidently to our table, opened the menu to reveal a years-old photo of her father, and proclaimed, “Papa!” Or maybe when a neighbourhood cat popped his head in the window beside me for a pat. Visit Antonio’s little bistro—you won’t be disappointed by the food or the experience.

SPLURGE: Michelin-starred La Caravella dal 1959

Located in Amalfi town, La Caravella dal 1959 features only twelve tables to accommodate diners—so book your reservations early. They are said to enhance the flavours of the region, and do so through an always-changing series of tasting menus for both lunch and dinner. They even have menus for dietary restrictions, including rare vegetarian and gluten-free options, and both a wine and champagne tasting experience—but personally, I’d order an Aperol Spritz.

You can get a glimpse of their food on Instagram—I’m particularly interested in this dish wrapped in a lemon leaf and this one in a lemon skin, of course.


STEAL: Get into the Water 

Nearly all of the beaches on the Amalfi Coast are exclusively accessible through private, paid beach clubs, but cooling off (even in May, when I visited!) is essential. When on a budget, why not enjoy the facilities included with your hotel?

We spent a decent amount of quality time at our stunning hotel pool. Now, this approach is seen by some as a bit controversial—you came all this way, and you want to experience as much of your destination as possible. But when it’s your first big trip since before the pandemic and the pool is this nice, it just makes sense to enjoy. We elected to spend a day and a half at the pool. I read two books, my partner worked on his tan, and we racked up a bill at the swim-up bar.

DEAL: Ride Mopeds on Capri

In my mind, Capri is known for two things—stunning views and luxury shopping. And while I didn’t take advantage of the latter, we decided to hit the open road to see all we could of the former. We arrived on the ferry to Capri in the morning and walked straight to Oasi Motor to rent our mopeds. For less than $70 each, we were each assigned a well-loved scooter that tackled the steep hills with ease.

In only five hours, we were able to lap the island, peek at the lineup of boats for the Blue Grotto, pop into the ocean at free beach Punta Carena, grab a seaside lunch of caprese sandwiches, and finish the day enjoying the views from the highest point of the island, courtesy of Capri’s famous single-seater Funicolare. 

SPLURGE: Get out on the Water

Next time I visit the Amalfi Coast, I hope to be able to take advantage of this splurge. And though our public ferry ride to Capri provided us with an incredible view of Amalfi, Positanto, and Capri itself, I felt some serious envy towards anyone out on a yacht or speedboat. 

Private tours are available from Magia Boats to a variety of destinations, but my pick is to visit the islands of Ischia and Procida in the Bay of Naples. Eight hours, room for 11 passengers, and stops to swim and visit the islands are all part of the day—and an onboard shower and light snacks are provided too! It’ll run you about 2000 euros.

As your travel trend forecaster, I predict a 100% chance of continued popularity for the Amalfi Coast—both for tourists and pop culture. My recommendation is go in the spring, like I did—and expect heat, views, and heavenly lemon treats.

Taryn Hardes

Taryn is a writer, content strategist, and natural wanderer—spending much of her time hiking and biking around her home in Vancouver, British Columbia. When she can, Taryn hops aboard a plane to a new place and prioritizes local cuisine above all else.
IG: @tarynhardes

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